Fitting Guide: 1000mm x 1000mm Tambour Door Kit (Recessed Fit & Inside Overlap Fit)

Fitting Guide: 1000mm x 1000mm Tambour Door Kit (Recessed Fit & Inside Overlap Fit)

This guide covers two common installation styles for a 1000mm (W) x 1000mm (H) tambour door kit and applies whether your tambour is set up for:

• Vertical operation (most common): the tambour door slides open up/down
• Horizontal operation: the tambour door slides open left/right

The best orientation depends on your space (where you have room for the tambour to roll up fully into the spirals) and how you need to access the opening.

You’ll also find two mounting approaches:

• Option A: Recessed fit (door sits within a cabinet opening)
• Option B: Inside overlap fit (door sits behind the opening and overlaps internally)

What is included in the kit: -

• 50 x 1m x 20mm slats
• 2 x 1m x 30mm handles
• 2 x 1m magnetic tapes
• 4 x 1m surface-mounted tracks
• 2 pairs of 120mm spirals (each set of spirals will only load up to 750mm of door)
• 2 x 1m L Trim fascia profiles
• 2 bags (screws & magnetic metal for installation)
• Spare Parts Kit: (sold separately) lets you build an extra door from leftover slats

Before you start

Please bear in mind that the spirals will only load up to 750mm of door when fully opened, so if any of the door is left in the opening when the door is fully opened, you will need to ensure that you will be able to access the unit inside fully for your storage needs.

Tools you will likely need

• Tape measure + pencil
• Spirit level / square
• Drill/driver + bits (only if you choose to screw-fix)
• Fine-tooth saw or mitre saw (for trimming tracks and door)
• File/sandpaper (to de-burr cut edges)
• Clamps or masking tape (to hold tracks while adhesive cures)
• Strong bonding adhesive suitable for your cabinet material (recommended)
• Optional: filler/putty (for filling screw holes)
• Optional: silicone spray / silicone lubricant (for helping the tambour slide in the new tracks)

Quick checks (important)

• Confirm your opening is square/parallel (measure diagonals; they should match).
• Check you have clearance for:
• The tracks in your chosen orientation
• The tambour spirals area (where the slats roll up into)
• Dry-fit parts before final fixing.

Track/spirals fixing method (surface fixed + bonded)

These tracks and spirals are designed to be surface-fixed and bonded into place.

• Preferred method: bond the tracks and spirals using a suitable adhesive (clean, strong, and avoids snag points).
• Alternative method: you can screw-fix the tracks and spirals if needed.

Important if screw-fixing

• Ensure no screw heads (or open screw holes) sit proud inside the track.
• Fill/finish the screw holes after fixing so the tambour slats cannot snag during use.

Step 1 - Choose your operation direction (vertical vs horizontal)

Vertical operation (up/down)

Choose vertical operation when:

• You have room above the opening for the tambour to roll into the spirals (spirals are 120mm in diameter)
• You want a classic roller-style cabinet door movement

Typical layout:

• Tracks run vertically down the sides
• A fascia (profile strip) is fitted across the top
• The tambour rolls up into the spirals at the top

Horizontal operation (left/right)

Choose horizontal operation when:

• You have room to one side of the opening for the tambour door to roll into the spirals (spirals are 120mm in diameter)
• Overhead space is limited (common in vans/RVs)

Typical layout:

• Tracks run horizontally along the top and bottom
• A fascia (profile strip) is fitted vertically at the side to hide the spirals and the curve of the door when the door opens, giving a flush finish at the front
• The tambour rolls into the spirals to the left or right, depending on which side you want the door to open/close

Tip: Whichever direction you choose, the key to smooth operation is that the tracks are square, parallel, and de-burred after cutting.

Step 2 - Cutting down the door and tracks

Your tambour door kit can be trimmed down to suit your exact opening.

Key sizing rule

Size the tambour curtain (slats) to your finished opening size minus 5mm total. This allows for the track depth and smooth movement.

Cutting down the tambour door (slats)

1. Measure your finished opening (use the smallest width/height if the opening varies).
2. Calculate your tambour size using the rule above (opening size minus 5mm).
3. Mark the cut line clearly across the tambour door.
4. Cut carefully using a fine-tooth saw.
5. Remove any burrs/rough edges so the tambour feeds smoothly into the tracks.

Cutting down the tracks

1. Dry-fit the tracks in position and mark the required length.
2. Cut the tracks square (mitre saw or fine-tooth saw recommended).
3. De-burr the cut ends thoroughly (file/sand) so the slats don’t catch.
4. Dry-fit again before bonding.

Step 3 - Helpful tips (do this before fitting the door)

3A) Apply tape to the back of the tambour door (recommended)

Before you insert the tambour door into the tracks, apply two straight runs of tape along the back of the tambour curtain. This helps stop the slats from moving independently and improves smooth operation.

• Apply two long strips of tape along the back of the door.
• Keep the tape straight and evenly spaced
• Press firmly along the full length so it bonds well

Tip: Don’t place tape so close to the edges that it could rub inside the track.

3B) Optional: silicone lubricant in the tracks (recommended for new tracks)

New tracks can feel tight at first. A light silicone spray/lubricant can help the door bed in smoothly.

• Use a silicone lubricant suitable for plastics
• Apply a light, even coat inside the track (avoid over-applying)

Step 4 - Installation order (recommended)

For the easiest fit, we recommend installing the kit in this order:

1. Fit the spirals first (bond/screw as required), making sure they’re parallel and positioned so the slats won’t rub when rolling in/out.
2. Fit the first track (bonded preferred). Make sure it’s straight and de-burred at the cut end.
3. Fit the fascia (profile strip) in the correct position for your chosen orientation.
4. Insert the tambour door into the fitted track and feed/roll it into the spirals carefully.
5. Fit the second track last (bond/screw as required), then adjust while adhesive is workable so both tracks are perfectly parallel and the door runs smoothly.

This sequence makes it much easier to get the door seated correctly before the second track is fixed permanently.

Optional: Making two smaller doors from one kit (e.g., 2 x 500mm x 500mm)

If your unit layout requires it, the 1000mm x 1000mm kit can be split to create two smaller doors (for example two 500mm x 500mm doors). The kit may include enough components to make two doors depending on the sizes of your openings and how the kit is being configured.

When this is a good option

• You have two separate openings (or want to divide one large opening into two sections)
• You prefer smaller, lighter doors
• Your space limits the tambour area for a single larger door

How to plan it

• Measure both openings (width and height) and confirm they are square.
• Decide the operation direction for each door:
• Vertical operation (up/down)
• Horizontal operation (left/right)
• Apply the sizing rule in this guide:
• Reduce each door by 5mm total to allow for the depth of the tracks.
• Dry-fit and confirm you have enough track length/components for both doors before cutting.

Cutting and building two doors

• Mark out the two door sizes on the tambour material.
• Cut the tambour carefully into two sections (fine-tooth saw recommended).
• De-burr/clean the cut edges.
• Cut the tracks down for each door and de-burr the ends.
• Install each door following the relevant fitting method below:
• Recessed fit
• Inside overlap fit

Important: If you are unsure whether your specific openings will allow two complete doors from one kit, measure up first and contact us with your opening sizes. We’ll confirm the best configuration before you cut anything.

Install option A - Recessed fit (within the opening)

Measure the cabinet opening

• Width measured at top / middle / bottom
• Height measured left / right
• Smallest width + smallest height noted as reference size
• Opening confirmed square

Plan where the tambour will roll up

• Vertical operation: space confirmed above opening for spirals/roll-up
• Horizontal operation: roll direction chosen (left/right) and space confirmed

Dry-fit the tracks (surface-fit)

• Tracks held in position in chosen orientation
• Tambour can enter/exit tracks cleanly
• Pencil lines marked for final placement

Prepare surfaces for bonding

• Cabinet surface cleaned (dust/grease removed)
• Back of tracks cleaned
• Glossy surfaces lightly keyed/sanded if needed
• Dry-fit checked again before adhesive

Bond both spirals into place (preferred)

• First spiral positioned correctly for chosen operation direction
• Clearance checked so slats wont rub when opening/closing
• Second spiral fitted parallel to the first

Bond the first track in place (preferred)

• Adhesive applied in a consistent bead to back of track
• Track pressed onto pencil line
• Track checked straight (level/square)
• Track clamped/taped while adhesive cures

Fit the fascia (profile strip)

• Vertical operation: fascia fitted level across the top
• Horizontal operation: fascia fitted vertically on the same side as spirals
• Fascia bonded (preferred) or screw-fixed (optional)

Install the tambour curtain (slats)

• Tambour fed into the first fitted track
• Door rolled fully into both spirals (out of the way)
• Door moved slowly to confirm smooth running in spirals

Bond the opposite track and make tracks parallel

• Opposite track bonded in place
• Track spacing measured at both ends
• Tracks adjusted while adhesive is workable so they are parallel
• After cure: door closed slowly to confirm smooth operation

If you screw-fix any tracks (optional)

• Pilot holes drilled if required
• Screws fitted with no heads protruding into track
• Screw holes filled/finished so slats cannot snag
• Filler fully cured and track checked smooth

Recessed fit finishing tips

• If rubbing occurs: re-check opening is square and tracks are aligned
• Minor cabinet inconsistencies corrected with a small shim behind a track (if needed)

Install option B - Inside overlap fit (behind the opening)

In this method, the tracks mount inside the cabinet behind the face frame/opening, so the door overlaps internally.

Measure the opening + internal mounting space

• Visible opening width/height measured
• Internal mounting width/height measured (where tracks will sit)
• Depth/space confirmed for:
• Track depth
• Tambour movement
• Tambour stack/roll area

Choose your overlap and operation direction

• Internal overlap amount chosen (kept even)
• Operation direction confirmed:
• Vertical: rolls up into spirals above
• Horizontal: rolls into spirals left/right

Dry-fit and mark track lines (surface-fit)

• Tracks held in place behind opening
• Pencil lines marked so both sides sit same distance back from cabinet front
• Tracks checked straight:
• Vertical: side tracks plumb
• Horizontal: top/bottom tracks level

Prepare surfaces for bonding

• Mounting surfaces cleaned and de-greased
• Dry-fit checked again

Bond both spirals into place (preferred)

• First spiral positioned correctly for chosen operation direction
• Clearance checked so slats wont rub when opening/closing
• Second spiral fitted parallel to the first

Bond the first track in place (preferred)

• Adhesive applied in a consistent bead to back of track
• Track pressed onto pencil line
• Track checked straight (level/square)
• Track clamped/taped while adhesive cures

Fit the fascia (profile strip)

• Vertical operation: fascia fitted level across the top
• Horizontal operation: fascia fitted vertically on the same side as spirals
• Fascia bonded (preferred) or screw-fixed (optional)

Install the tambour curtain (slats)

• Tambour fed into the first fitted track
• Door rolled fully into both spirals (out of the way)
• Door moved slowly to confirm smooth running in spirals

Bond the opposite track and make tracks parallel

• Opposite track bonded in place
• Track spacing measured at both ends
• Tracks adjusted while adhesive is workable so they are parallel
• After cure: door closed slowly to confirm smooth operation

If you screw-fix any tracks (optional)

• Pilot holes drilled if required
• Screws fitted with no heads protruding into track
• Screw holes filled/finished so slats cannot snag
• Filler fully cured and track checked smooth

Inside overlap fit finishing tips

• If door catches cabinet front edge: move tracks slightly further back (even 2mm helps)
• Setbacks kept equal so door closes evenly

Troubleshooting (quick checks)

• Door is stiff/binding: tracks not parallel, cabinet not square, burrs on cut ends, screw heads/holes snagging
• Door wont close fully: stop position wrong, handle fouling, track not level/straight
• Door rubs one side: one track out of alignment; adjust and re-check